1. Locate the point at which trunk flare begins. This may require some removal of soil from the top of the root ball.
2. Dig hole 2-3 times width of root ball and as deep as the root ball (no deeper!) Measure from trunk flare to bottom of root ball to determine the depth of the hole.
3. If root ball is in a container, remove container and cut 4 or 5 shallow vertical slashes into root ball to break any patterns of circular growth. If root ball is in natural fiber burlap, once the plant is put in the planting hole, remove ropes and the top 1/3 of burlap. Do not try to remove the entire burlap or the entire wire basket. The top section of the wire basket should be cut, or bent back when the plant is in the hole.
4. After the plant is in the hole, back fill 3/4 of the way to the top of the root ball with the following mix:
20% compost, 80% existing soil along with the recommended amount of mycorrhizae as instructed on the packet.
5. Fill the remainder of the hole with water twice, then back fill the rest of the way. Water again.
6. Tamp soil lightly around root ball and leave ridge of soil around edge of hole to hold future waterings.
7. In windy sites, it is good to stake trees for the first year, especially for large caliper trees. The tree should be able to sway a little with the wind (this actually helps stimulate root growth).
8. Apply mulch about 2” deep to retain moisture and discourage weed growth. Do not mulch within 2-3” of the main trunk area.
Maintenance the First Year
Watering
Deep, weekly watering is a must. Fall watering up until the ground freezes is also critical. This water must penetrate to the depth of the root ball to be adequate. A saucer formed around the planting hole reduces run-off. Most plants that fail in the first season do so because of inadequate watering practices. A newly-installed plant does not have an established root system, therefore, it is much more susceptible to extremely dry or wet conditions.
Fertilizing
The amended soil mix will provide most of the nutrients a plant requires for the first season. The following year, an organic fertilizer may be added if needed.
Pruning
Most newly planted trees and shrubs spend most of their energy establishing their root system. Therefore, top growth is often minimized naturally, so that pruning or shaping is not necessary. For future pruning, as a guideline, prune after your plant is done flowering.
Mulching & Weeding
Use of well-composted bark mulch will enhance the water-holding capacity of soil, and reduce weed competition. Remove weeds as they appear, so your plant can use all the nutrients in the soil. Mulch should be applied 2” deep, but keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk or stems.
